Trane is well-known for its line of furnaces and air conditioners. Their high-efficient furnace, and own air flow system make the Trane brand desirable to many homeowners who are looking for a unit that will give them comfortable and inexpensive service. Like many furnaces, Trane provides a quick diagnostic check with a flashing light system which is either red or green depending upon the model.
A furnace has several different states that it can be in at any one time. It can be completely off, on but not being used, on and being used for heating, and not working for various reasons. It's difficult to tell the difference between some of these conditions, so Trane put an easy to understand code into a blinking green light on the front panel. Knowing the code tells what the Trane is doing at the time.
When the light is flashing in a sequence the Trane is communicating specific problems that need professional assistance. The light will flash for the sequence, then pause, and then flash again. By counting the flashes and matching it up with the chart on the back of the unit you can diagnose what is wrong before you call the heating service.
The flashes range from two flashes to nine. Two flashes means that there is an external lockout because the unit has exceeded the number of tries to start. This is a safety feature that prevents the unit from continually attempting to start when there is a problem. Another important number is five flashes, which means there is a flame where there is not supposed to be one.
Six flashes can sometimes be fixed by the homeowner by merely disconnecting the electrical plug from the wall outlet and putting it in upside down from the way it was before unplugging it. If this does not stop the blinking then you have a more major electrical problem that needs resolving. Seven flashes indicate a problem with the gas valve, which should be checked immediately. Low flames are shown by eight flashes and nine flashes means the igniter must be checked.
The igniter is only used when the furnace needs to start from a cold start so it is not as urgent as some of the others. However, if the furnace goes out and the igniter is not working, the furnace cannot turn back on without it being repaired.The table reflecting all the key aspects of Honeywell thermostat troubleshooting is presented below.
Problem Possible Cause Solution Excessive noise If there is an antihum spring, it is not touching the throttling plate.
Reposition spring to touch throttling plate. If there is no antihum spring or cone, the adhesive paper dot has fallen off of the throttling plate. Stick an adhesive paper dot on the throttling plate as described above.
Air leak in restrictor block and filter assembly. Use a bubble solution to locate the leak and repair it. Replace the restrictor block assembly and filter. Install Stiffener Plate on the backplate. Oil or moisture in lines. Also ensure that the air supply to the thermostat is dry and clean. Thermostat instability System gain is too high. Move throttling range adjustment toward MAX position and then recalibrate. Inaccurate readings Inaccurate calibration.
Recalibrate thermostat. Metal cover setscrews over-tightened. Turn setscrews in. Backplate over-tightened. Thermostat not switching over at changeover pressure Pressure at thermostat is incorrect. Readjust compressed airline to proper switching pressure. Switchover pressure in thermostat is incorrectly calibrated. Turn switchover adjustment screw to recalibrate pressure for proper switching.
Cannot calibrate thermostat Oil or moisture in lines. Display is blank Make sure fresh AA alkaline batteries are properly installed Cannot change system setting to Cool Check Function System Type to make sure it is set to match your heating and cooling equipment Fan does not turn on when heat is required Check Function Heating Fan Control to make sure it is set to match your heating equipment Heating system is running in cool mode Check Function System Type to make sure it is set to match your heating and cooling equipment Red light is on If thermostat is in Emergency Heat mode the red light is normal.
It only takes a minute to sign up. I noticed my home gas furnace was turning on, I could hear it running, but it seemed the fan was not blowing the heat out of the heat duct vents SO I went downstairs to the furnace, and looked at the red blinking light on my American Standard Freedom 80 furnace, and it showed 4 blinking flashes then a pause, so I looked on the error chart on the front panel, and it said "Open high limit device.
Anyways, while I was there at the furnace, I figured I would jiggle the 2 electrical connections that connect to the fan housing. I just tried to get the metal on metal connection of the electrical connectors to seat slightly differently. I put the front panel back on, and the system fired up, and this time I could hear the fan running and blowing the hot air.
I went upstairs, and yes, the heat vents had blowing hot air. Anyways, in the days before this I had been smelling an odd "electrical burning" smell, like a smell I had smelled before when I had a motor burn out, in some other unrelated tool. I'm just guessing that this smell is related to the new problem with the furnace?
The filter was replaced one month ago. Well, I was wondering if you could suggest some helpful hints and knowledge? I sure would appreciate being able to learn. Does "open high limit device" error code mean that the device is stuck open?
What do you think the "burning" smell is coming from? Which part would be affected in such a way as to cause this? A "high limit" switch protects the furnace against overheating and damage -- it's located in the output duct, or plenumof the furnace and turns the furnace off if things get too hot up there.
The usual cause of a high limit trip is inadequate airflow -- in your case, because an apparently faulty connection was causing the fan to not run. If you continue to get the "electrical burning" smell after fixing the connections -- that's a sign the fan motor on your furnace is on the way out the door.Water Heater Thermocouple Honeywell Replace
Generally, you'll need to have an HVAC service tech come in and swap it for a replacement. If you can access the other side of the connection, you can also use a voltmeter to measure the voltage drop across it -- anything more than a volt is cause for serious concern.
I had the same thing. I checked both limit switches with a meter and the primary limit switch was open, but closed once it cooled off.
It would heat up, light for a few minutes but the blower never turned on. This caused it to overheat so the induction blower turned on and stayed on to cool it off. This ind blower would not turn off until I unplugged it. An hvac guy I know said to buy American because it will last longer. The capacitor is attached to the blower housing.
The thing is still under warranty for parts, but I have to pay shipping, and wait for it to come, and pay a plumber hundreds of dollars to install the f—ing thing. This would upset me less if I had hot water meanwhile! And you also carry repair parts for other models that are now obsolete, right? Get a contractor model. Not only that, but people return their old ones, and parts of them at least can probably be reused in new hundred-plus dollar valves.
The reset button only works if the overheating occurred in the heating chamber. In that case, the pilot light will not stay lit and you do not get the four flashes. Four flashes only happens if the water overheated — different problem. When the circuit board in the gas valve detects the water-too-hot situation, it writes something into static memory in one of its chips, and the valve will never work again unless you can manage to reset it as described below.
Deliberately, maliciously, and probably under the pretense of safety. One of the comments below, describes a way to do this by hooking a battery to a couple of connection points on the board.
First, get a new valve. You can open up both the old and replacement valve, and just swap the fronts of the valves, containing the recalcitrant circuit board, leaving the back part that connects to the gas pipes in place. This does require one special tool, pictured at left. To begin, address the old gas valve. Probably not, but it was worth a try.
Also turn the black dial to Off. Remove the ivory-colored plastic front of the gas valve from the back of the unit. As shown below, you must:. Removing the cover of the insidious old gas valve. The cover is still attached to the back of the unit by a colorful ribbon of wires, with a plug at the end that connects to the circuit board. Tug gently, away from the board, to unplug the plug. Note which color is on which side.
Slide the ribbon of wires out of the clip on the housing, and the front of the gas valve is free. The result:. It may take a minute or so before the heating element comes on; be patient. This may help all. I took the circuit board completely out of the unit and let it sit for about an hour. I re installed it and got the 7 flashes instead of the four flashes. The pilot would light and I let it sit for a few minutes running on pilot.
I then turned the gas valve to hot and it lit and ran. After about ten minutes the flashes changed back to the normal one flash operation. We shall see how long this lasts.
Honeywell thermostat troubleshooting
I think the Board discharged and thus reset the memory allowing it to operate again. Maybe……I also shook chicken bones over it and chanted. Still working after these few months?Experienced service technicians available to diagnose and fix your heating system day or night!
A complete Lennox furnace repair guide, from how to replace your air filter, to troubleshooting and error codes, model numbers and more! Please note, the following is for informational purposes only.
Any servicing you attempt is at your own risk. Lennox International has been a household name for well over a century, and the company has been a revolutionary leader in the HVAC industry ever since its inception back in Furnace filters filter the air being drawn into your heating system, meaning they improve air quality, increase the efficiency of your furnace, and keep contaminants, pollutants, and allergens out of the air.
Remember to always turn your furnace completely off before opening it up to look around or attempt any fix. Lennox furnaces are equipped with two LED lights that will flash in different patterns to help you diagnose various problems.
If both LEDs are flashing together slowly, it means the furnace is operating normally. Not all furnace repair and maintenance issues require the help of a certified technician, but some do, including if your Lennox furnace:. All Lennox furnaces come with parts and heat exchanger warranty, and the model of your furnace will determine how long the warranty lasts. What are you looking for? Is it urgent? Nearest City Winnipeg. Nearest City Regina Saskatoon.
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Updated for A complete Lennox furnace repair guide, from how to replace your air filter, to troubleshooting and error codes, model numbers and more! How to Replace Your Air Filter. When you have the new filter, remove the access panel from the furnace or slide it open to get to the filter. Slide out the old filter. Find the arrows on the new filter and use them as a guide for inserting it, and then slide it into place.The Wall.
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RianS Member Posts: Subject is pilot outage. We put a smart valve on it about 1. Thanks Rian. PeterGriffin Member Posts: December When I was troubleshooting I determined there was volts going to the SV, and after going through the SV, should have powered the combustion motor.
I was not getting power to the combustion motor. I replaced the valve, furnace works fine for three weeks. Not unusually loud or anything obvious. Today I get a call-back to the house, same problem. Again, I replace the gas valve and the furnace runs fine.
Why is this happening? My boss and I were unable to come up with a solution. We thought of the combustion motor drawing too many amps and shorting out the gas valve, but the motor was drawing 2. Considered the possibilty of a short on the circuit board, but it seems highly unlikely as the board is a fused circuit. We reached the same conclusion when thinking about a power surge. Anything I'm overlooking? Thank you, Rankin.Rheem, a furnace and home appliance manufacturer based in California, produces a line of furnaces for home use.
Some Rheem models — particularly newer furnaces — have an integrated furnace control inside them that flashes a warning LED light when there is a problem with operation. One blink of the light with a two-second pause before the next blink signals a lockout for one hour.
During lockout, a Rheem furnace will not turn on or function. Lockout is a safety feature that can be caused by more than one problem; on some Rheem models, lockout is caused by a failed ignition sequence.
A problem during the ignition sequence can be a safety hazard — a gas leak, for example — so a professional should check the furnace even though turning off power to the furnace off and restarting it might end the lockout. Two blinks of the light with a two-second pause means the pressure switch is open. The pressure switch monitors the furnace's ventilation. Whether the switch open or closes depends on the amount of pressure in the furnace; Rheem sets pressure defaults during the manufacturing process.
While the switch should be open at the start of the ignition process, it should close at some point — depending on the model — before the process continues. If it doesn't close, the error light will blink.
Various conditions can cause a pressure switch to open, including a defect with the switch itself or a blocked vent. Three LED blinks with a two-second pause indicates the limit switch is closed. A limit switch is a safety feature directly wired into the furnace; it stops a furnace from overheating if air isn't properly flowing through the heat exchanger.
If the switch is closed, debris might be clogging the filter or the blower fan housing. An LED that blinks four times followed by a two-second pause is signaling the pressure switch is closed when it should be open. The switch itself might be stuck, or the tubing that attaches the switch to the furnace's draft inducer might be blocked. Some Rheem models have "twinning" capabilities. If there's any fault with the setup, the LED will blink five times, followed by a two-second pause.
Twinning is when two Rheem furnaces of the same make and model are being used together on the same ductwork and thermostat. Twinned furnaces are usually used if the area being heated needs more heat and air circulation than one furnace can provide but the installation options, connections or existing ductwork don't allow for a larger furnace.
Anna Assad began writing professionally in and has published several legal articles for various websites. She has an extensive real estate and criminal legal background. She also tutored in English for nearly eight years, attended Buffalo State College for paralegal studies and accounting, and minored in English literature, receiving a Bachelor of Arts.
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